Woven interlining fabric.



PATENTED SEPT. 13, 1904.

G. S. 00X.

WOVEN INTERLINING FABRIC.

APPLIUATION FILED JULY 1, 1903.

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WTHESSES: Qnz. .9m Wk @JWM/QM.

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UNITED STATES Patented September 13., i904.

PATENT Trice.

GEORGE S. COX, OF FITZVVATERTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND WALTER S. COX, TRADING AS GEORGE S. COX AND BROTHER, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

WOVEN INTERLINING FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N0. 769,790, dated September 13, 1904.

Application iiled July l, 1903. Serial No. 163,853. (No specimens.)

To @ZZ whom, if may concern.'

Beit known that I, GEORGE S. COX, a citizen of the United States, residing at Fitzwatertown, county of Montgomery, and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Woven Interlining Fabrics, of which the following is a full, clear, and eX- act description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to woven interlining fabrics-that is, a fabric which, among other uses, is cut to form the stiffening-pieces interposed between the cloth and lining at the lower edge of a dress. Such fabrics as usually woven contain a weft composed entirely of horsehair. One objection to the fabric of solid horsehair-'weft is the lslowness with which it is woven. As is well known, the horsehair before it is woven consists of separate strands slightly longer than the width of the fabric to be woven. After each shed of warp a selector picks up a single strand of horsehair, and a spring-jawed shuttle takes hold of the same and pulls it across the loom. This operation is repeated after each shed of warp. The weaving of the fabric is therefore a comparatively slow operation. Moreover, the fabric is expensive by reason of the slowness with which it is woven. I have attempted to increase the rapidity of weaving by causing two picks of horsehair to be simultaneously thrown in each shed and setting the take-up motion to cause the cloth to be pulled through twice as fast, so as to maintain unchanged the number of picks per inch. This doubles the speed of weaving; but the resultant fabric is too flimsy to have any practical value, owing to the fact that the frequency with which the warp is crossed from top to bottom is reduced by one-half. The rapidity of weaving may also be increased by something substantially less than doubleby causing two picks of horsehair to be simultaneously thrown in each shed and setting the take-up motion so as to increase the number of picks per inch. This fabric is not so iiimsy; but the cost of material is enhanced to such an extent that it more than ccunterbalances the economy resulting from the more rapid weaving. Another objection to the fabric of exclusively horsehair weft is that the strands of hair being of small diameter and perfectly smooth cannot be effectively held in place by the warp and frequently pull out, especially when a piece is cut of comparatively small width.

I have discovered that if for each alternate pick of horsehair is substituted a pick of linen yarn of greater Vthickness than the horsehair and if two picks of weft, one of horsehair and one of linen, are thrown in each shed of warp a fabric will be formed which is not only capable of being woven with twice the rapidity of the ordinary one-shuttle solid horsehair weft fabric, but which is in some respects, at least, superior to such fabric. I have discovered that in a fabric so constructed and woven the wefts of horsehair are sufficiently numerous and closely associated to impart such a rigidity to the linen wefts and to the fabric as a whole that such fabric constitutes a serviceable substitute for the ordinary oneshuttle solid horsehair weft fabric, so far as its stiffening qualities are concerned. Moreover, it is actually superior to such ordinary horsehair fabric, as I have discovered that the linen holds the horsehair in place and prevents it pulling out, a result probably due to the comparatively rough surface of the linen, which is in intimate contact with the horsehair throughout the latters length. My improved fabric possesses none of the flimsiness that would characterize a solid horseh air weft fabric having two picks in each shed, as the greater diameter of the linen yarn over the horsehair weftpcompensates for the less frequent crossing from top to bottom of the warp. I have also discovered that the linen will not twist or become distorted in the finishing operation to which horsehair fabric is subjected and will not 'shrink when washed, thus, unlike many other materials, enabling it to be used with horsehair, which, as is well known, maintains its set and length under all conditions.

In the drawings, Figure l is an enlarged plan View of my improved interlining fabric.

' Fig. 2 is a section through the weft on the line of the Warp.

c is the cotton Warp. a is the horsehair weft, and the linen weft, one piclz'of each lying together in each shed of Warp. .The linen weft is of greater diameter than the horsehair weft, as shown.

For the cotton Warp may be substituted Warp of any other suitable flexible material. While the use of linen as the flexible material to be associated with the horsehair weft is preferred, I do not confine myself thereto, as any material may be substituted therefor that Will meet the requirements hereinbefore specified.

Having now fully described my invention, what 1 claim, and desire to protect by Letters Patent, ise- An interlining fabric consisting of a Warp 0f ieXible material and a weft having a pick of horsehair and a pick of material of less stiffness and of greater thickness than the horsehair in each shed of Warp, substantially as described.

In testimony of which invention I have hereunto set my hand, at Philadelphia, Pennsyl- Vania, on this 22d day of June, 1903.

GEORGE S. COX. Witnesses:

FRANK S. BUssER, M. F. ELLIS. 

